Problem & Solution:
The horse that doesn’t want to accept the bit & throws his head when ridden.

In Resistance Free™ Training and Riding we teach the rider to listen to their horse. When they do this correctly, they are able to work out the problem before it turns into a major disaster. It is much like the fireman putting out the spark before the barn burns down.
When your horse refuses to be bridled, he is telling you very directly that he has been hurt or abused in either the bridling process or the bit itself has caused some degree of pain in the past. Before I start to correct a situation like this, I always follow this three step procedure.

1. Always check your horse’s mouth first. Make sure his wolf teeth are pulled. They are small teeth, about the size of an eraser on the end of a pencil. They have no roots and are very sensitive. The wolf teeth are normally located in front of the molars. When the mouthpiece is placed in the horse’s mouth, it will cause a jarring impact with the wolf teeth, causing small shocks to go through your horse’s system and causing him great pain. This is one of the major causes for your horse not to accept the bit, so have these wolf teeth pulled. They are your wisdom teeth, they serve no purpose.
2. Always check to see if your horse has “points”. This is a sharpened edge on your horse’s teeth. When your horse eats, he eats sideways in a grinding motion, causing this condition. Take your thumb and rub it up and down on the inside of your horse’s cheek. If they are sharp you need to immediately have this taken care of. You need to have your horse’s teeth floated.
3. Always check your horse’s mouth for tooth decay, cuts on his tongue and mouth sores. You do this by smelling his breath and inspection.

A qualified Equine Dentist or your veterinarian can correct all of these conditions. He will remove the wolf teeth, “float” your horse’s teeth and check his mouth. Have this inspection done every six months. If everything looks good, my next step is to review my technique bridling my horse.
Before bridling, have your halter and lead around your horse’s neck and make sure you do not have him tied solid or in a cross tie. Either remove or undue one side of the chin strap. Stand to the side and not in front of your horse when bridling. This allows you to put your hands up over his poll, using your hands together. Make sure your headstall fits correctly. Your bit should be wrapped in latex tape, so if it does hit a tooth, it will not cause the pain that a metal mouth piece does. With your fingers, push on the corners of the
inside of your horse’s lips, making him start to chew. Then with your other hand up at the poll with the top of the bridle, pull up until he picks up the bit with his tongue. The first contact to your horse’s lips is with your fingers and not the bit. Always let your horse drop the bit from his mouth when he is being unbridled. Never pull the bit out of his mouth.
Once he starts to chew and lick his lips with your finger pressure and accepting the wrapped bit, he will realize there is no pain involved. You have just made your first step to creating a very positive experience for him. Don’t stop now. I would then bridle and unbridle your horse at least 20 times. Make sure you are patient! Don’t let your temper take over if you experience resistance. If he does not let you touch or come near his mouth with your hand, just back up and see if he will eat a little grain out of your hand. This will start him chewing and gaining trust. If it takes several days to gain his confidence and trust, take several days. Don’t get in a hurry at this point.
When your horse continually throws his head when you are riding him, you either have the wrong bit or your riding skills need to be improved. I have found that 90% of the time it is the rider’s hands that have no “feel”. When you are over riding your horse and your hands are to quick and heavy, it is a quaranteed result that your horse will protect his mouth by stiffening his jaw and pulling back. Have a friend shake your hand with a soft rhythmic cadence. Then one of you start to move your hand faster and stronger. The result will be resistance. Next examine your bit. Rub your fingers all over the mouthpiece and make sure there are not any burrs or rough spots that will cause your horse to fight the bit. This would be like having a small pebble in your shoe. It is irritating and eventually feels like a large boulder which causes friction and pain. If you are using a bit that is too severe, it will also cause head throwing and nervousness. Always use a bit that complements the level of your horse’s training and your riding skills. Remember, anytime your horse feels pain it will frighten him and cause flight. Thus the fight syndrome will take over. The “red light” of head tossing needs to always be addressed.
Learn to develop feel in your hands. Hold the reins in your fingers, not your fist. This allows you to feel the corners of your horse’s lips and tongue and you will be able to develop the lightness needed to communicate with your horse. Keep everything slow and simple; walk several circles letting your hands feel the rhythm of your horses shoulders and leg cadence. Your “green light” will be a harmony of giving and gathering. It could take 60 days of this program to achieve this goal.
I recommend using a snaffle and two hands. The snaffle should be as mild as possible. A large, smooth tapered mouthpiece is recommended, such as the Resistance Free™ bit I have designed for exactly this use. Anything used that is more sever will only keep the mental pressure of flight and pain, causing your horse to fall back in his training program. Once you feel your horse relax and start to trust you hands and the bit, only then advance to faster work at the trot and canter or lope. You should feel your horse start to trust your hands during your ride. This is your ultimate goal to a great relationship with your horse, so keep him in good health, go slow in your training program and follow a routine that gives him confidence and allows for both of you to build an ongoing trust.

May you always ride a good horse.

Richard Shrake
Visit Richard Shrake's Resistance Free Training web site.